The Shot of A Lifetime

How many times have you photographed that “once-in-a-lifetime”
scene, only to find that you could have composed the scene in a better
way, missed the focus, used a too-slow shutter speed to get a
sharp hand-held shot, too wide an aperture for good depth of field, and
so on? Before the days of the digital darkroom, that
“once-in-a-lifetime” shot may have just become a missed opportunity.
Today, we can fix or alter those mistakes (to some degree) while
sitting at our computers. To illustrate one technique for saving an
image, I’ll enhance a picture
in Photoshop CS that I took of two cheetahs at the Sacramento Zoo. You can use
the same techniques in Adobe Photoshop Elements and other image-editing
programs.

Let’s begin.




Original Image. Above is my
original photograph. For
one thing, it’s a bit flat, because I underexposed the image by
1/4-stop to avoid burning out the white portion of the animals’ fur.
But
that’s not the only problem with the image. I used a shutter speed that
was too slow, so the foreground cheetah’s head is slightly blurred.
What’s more, the focus point was aimed between the two animals, so the
foreground cheetah is slightly out of focus (because I was shooting at
f/5.6, and the effective focal length of my lens was 520mm, which
produced very shallow depth of field). Finally, the foreground grass is
washed out and overexposed.




Crop. Next I used the Crop tool to draw more
interest to the animals. I could have used a tighter crop, but as
you’ll see, my intention was to use a digital frame, so I needed some
extra room around the subject.

 
Next I created a duplicate layer,
because I wanted to selectively sharpen only part of the image, namely
the foreground cheetah. (I am writing this for both Elements and
Photoshop CS users. Because there is no History brush in Elements,
which can save time and steps in the following process, I am using
Layers for this technique.)



Sharpen. Next I used Unsharp Mask to sharpen the
entire bottom layer. For newcomers to Photoshop, Unsharp Mask is the
preferred way to sharpen an image.



Erase. The next step was to go back to the top layer
and use the Eraser tool over the foreground cheetah’s body to reveal
the sharper area of the picture below. By clicking on the Eye icon on
the bottom layer, I could see how much of the cheetah’s body I was
erasing.



Levels. To correct for the dull color and lack of
contrast, I used Levels, moving the sliders to inside the right side
(highlight) and left side (shadows) of the histogram. This is a common
technique for correcting an image.


More work is needed. Levels and Unsharp Mask did a
great job on the cheetahs, but now the foreground grass is even more
overexposed, and quite frankly, quite annoying to me.


Clone, blur and add a frame. To
hide the overexposed
grass, I used the Clone Stamp tool to paste some of the non-overexposed
grass over the overexposed grass. To cover up repeating patterns (a
dead giveaway when using the Clone Stamp tool), I slightly blurred the
pasted-in areas of the scene with the Blur tool. To hide those areas
even more, I used the Camera frame in PhotoFrame 2.5
(www.Ononesoftware.com), a Photoshop Plug-in. The new and improved
image took only about 10 minutes to create, but I’ve been using
Photoshop for a few years.

   
Experiment. I always encourage my workshop students
to experiment with different effects, offered in Photoshop’s Filter,
Actions and with Plug-ins. Here, I created a sepia-toned image using the
Sepia Toning Action in Photoshop CS. To sum all of this up, don’t be so quick to delete an image
in-camera. Tremendous correcting and enhancing possibilities await you
in the digital darkroom.

~CH

Please Forgive me

I apologize that I've not been blogging on this lately, but trust me, lots has occured since my last post. I will be updating this much more often, and thank you to those of you who check this occasionally. You won't be let down.
~CH

Capture Fireworks Like You've Always Dreamed

Fireworks displays are certainly stunning and colorful. Capturing those moments with a camera is a challenge, though. Often times, you'll end up with shaky, blurry messes that hardly resemble what actually happened. This year, get stellar fireworks pictures.Watching fireworks go off on the 4th of July is always fun to do, but photographing them can sometimes be your biggest headache. Here are some digital photography tips for shooting fireworks pictures.

Use a tripod
I know, I know, I hate carrying those things around too. But when it comes to fireworks, you need them! They make a world of difference getting rid of camera shake, especially when using a long exposure time. Also, if you have a some sort of shutter remote, use it. Anything you have that will keep the camera still will improve your photos. If you don't already have one, get some tips on "Choosing the Right Tripod for Your Digital Camera."

Find a spot
Finding an area where to set up is another major factor in how your pictures will turn out. Try to arrive early and scout the area out. If possible, see if you can find out where the fireworks will be launched. This information will give you idea of where you need to be. While looking for a good spot keep in mind to avoid obstructions and weather, especially wind. Remember that wind will blow the smoke somewhere, so try to keep it out of your photos.
Also, try to avoid where a lot of people might be joining you. I'm sure you don't want the backs of heads in your photos or someone bumping into or kicking your tripod while you're tying to work. Try to stay away from the street or city lights. They can possible cause lens flare in photos. Make sure you don' have anything sneaking into your photo. Tree branches are especially good at that "Where's Waldo" thing.

It's all in the timing
Exposure/shutter speed is something you need to stay on top of when shooting fireworks. Usually, 1 to 4 seconds is good depending on what you're trying to do with the photo. Anything shorter and you may not get the full effect or the full bloom of the fireworks and anything longer you may just end up with a washed out image. You can keep your shutter speeds down by compensating on the ISO. Try to stay in ISO 50 or ISO 100. If you go higher, you'll start to introduce film noise and grain into photographs.

Stay focused
Setting your focus to infinity or landscape mode is also advisable if you don't want to take the time to manually focus your pictures. If your camera is equipped, put the setting to fireworks mode.

See the light
Bring a small flashlight. This will save you from losing your temper while trying to fiddle with your camera in the dark.

Don't get flashed
Turn your flash off. If you're camera won't allow you to turn it off, use some tape to cover it.

Memory for memories
Bring your memory cards! You don't want to run out of memory before the grand finale. While you're grabbing the extra memory cards, you may want to grab extra batteries.

Quality is crucial
Use your highest quality setting on your camera.

With these tips, you won't just walk away from Independence Day with memories, but with memory cards packed with high-quality images.
You Stay Classy,
~CH

Apple unviels "Aperture"

On October 20th, 2005, Apple Computers introduced Aperture, the first all-in-one post production tool that provides everything photographers need after the shoot. Aperture offers an advanced and incredibly fast RAW workflow that makes working with a camera’s RAW images as easy as JPEG. Built from the ground up for pros, Aperture features powerful compare and select tools, nondestructive image processing, color managed printing and custom web and book publishing.

“Aperture is to professional photography what Final Cut Pro is to filmmaking,” said Rob Schoeben, Apple’s vice president of Applications Marketing. “Finally, an innovative post production tool that revolutionizes the pro photo workflow from compare and select to retouching to output.”

“Until now, RAW files have taken so long to work with,” said Heinz Kluetmeier, renowned sports photographer whose credits include more than 100 Sports Illustrated covers. “What amazed me about Aperture is that you can work directly with RAW files, you can loupe and stack them and it’s almost instantaneous—-I suspect that I’m going to stop shooting JPEGs. Aperture just blew me away.”


Compare & Select Photo Tools
Unique compare and select tools in Aperture allow photographers to easily sift through massive photo projects and quickly identify their final selections. Aperture is the first application that automatically groups sequences of photos into easy-to-manage Stacks based on the time interval between exposures. In an industry first, Aperture allows photographers to navigate through entire projects in a full-screen workspace that can be extended to span multiple displays, tiling multiple images side-by-side for a faster, easier compare and select.


With Aperture’s Loupe magnifying tool, portions of images can be examined in fine detail without having to zoom and pan across large files. In addition, a virtual Light Table provides the ideal canvas for building simple photo layouts, allowing them to be arranged, resized and piled together in a free-form space.

RAW images are maintained natively throughout Aperture without any intermediate conversion process, and can be retouched with stunning results using a suite of adjustment tools designed especially for photographers. Aperture’s nondestructive image processing engine never alters a single pixel of original photos so photographers have the power and flexibility to modify or delete changes at any point in the workflow.


Create Multiple Versions of Images Without Duplicating Files
As Aperture allows users to create multiple versions of a single image without duplicating files, photographers can experiment without risk of overwriting the master image or using up large amounts of hard drive space. Aperture images can also be launched directly into Adobe Photoshop for compositing and layer effects.

Aperture features a complete color-managed pipeline with support for device specific ColorSync profiles and a set of high-quality output tools for photographers to showcase their work. Print options include customizable contact sheets, high-quality local printing and color- managed online prints. Aperture provides a deceptively simple layout environment where photographers can quickly create and order custom professional-caliber books and publish stunning web galleries.

Aperture makes it easy to back up an entire library of images with a single click and streamline complex workflows with AppleScript® and Automator actions.


Pricing & Availability
Aperture will be available in November through the Apple store, Apple’s retail stores and Apple Authorized Resellers for a suggested retail price of $499 (US). Full system requirements and more information on Aperture can be found at the Apple Web site.

I hope to be using this program very soon to improve my workflow,
You stay classy,
~CH

Tips for Capturing Autumn Scenic Images

Fall is one of the prettiest times of the year to take photos, with Halloween and Thanksgiving decorations about and the leaves showing us their magnificent shades of reds and yellows. Whether you are a pro or an amateur, this yearly display of splendor is sure to inspire the inner photographer in any of us.
This time of the year almost hands us beautiful pictures where ever we look, but you want to plan out your shoot. Here are a few tips that will help you capture these wonderful scenes:

Aim for the "magic hours"
Anytime of the day you’ll find great pictures of the fall foliage, but try to take photos in the early morning or late evening. You may have heard the term "magic hour" in photography, which refers to the hour after sunrise and the hour before sunset. Though it's not written in stone that you’ll get the best photos at these times, you are likely to get some great lighting.

Think big and small
Don’t spend all of your time shooting big broad landscapes. While those make nice images, remember to take pictures of the little things, too. A thousand red and yellow leaves do look pretty but, like people, each is unique and deserves a close-up.

Move around
Composition is always important in photography, and shooting fall pictures is no exception. I know there are times when that perfect picture just jumps out at you, especially when you’re driving up 95 or one of the other interstates through New England during peak foliage. There have been times I’ve just wanted to slam on the brakes and snap a few pictures. Remember to try different angles. There are a thousand possibilities, not just at a height of 6 feet and straight on. It's amazing how a subject can change by just moving a foot or two in any direction.

Take some time
If you are traveling to a popular fall foliage destination, give yourself plenty of time. If possible, try to stay a few days at your destination so you can really check things out. Get off the beaten path a little bit and get things the average tourists doesn’t see. There might be a beautiful lake or a pumpkin patch down that next dirt road. Do a little exploring and see where the day takes you.

Now go and capture how beautiful fall can be!
~CH

Quick Tips For Better Portraits

Yes, you can use your camera to take your own portraits and glamour photos. There are key tips to make the session successful, and enjoyable for both photographer and model. Find out how to take great portraits, and glamour photos.
Taking pictures of people, in my opinion, is one of the hardest subjects in photography. Most of the time you’re not just a photographer, but also a director for subject placement and sometimes a psychologist by keeping your subject(s) happy.

Set the stage
There's no need to worry if you don’t have a state of the art studio, many of us don’t. A homemade studio can be put together relatively cheap nowadays, and that’s really if you want a studio where you have control over everything! A lot of nice portraits are done outside or on location. You can find backdrops that you could never get in a studio.

That special place
Everyone seems to have a little place they love to go to. If the model you’re working with does, then that can work to your advantage. Keeping your model happy and relaxed reflects in your photographs.

Watch your back
Simplify the photo. Keep the focus of your photograph on the subject. Get rid of the clutter in the background either by removing it or keeping it out of focus. Backgrounds have a major effect on your portraits. There are no definite dos and don’ts, but that fair skinned blonde might stand out more against a dark background than a lighter one.

Choose the right position
Your camera positioning can have a strong impact on your subject and overall theme of the portrait. Using eye level height is where you should always start. Shooting your subject from a lower height will give your subject a more “I’m in charge” look.

The eyes have it
Where do you want to focus? This is a question I get asked a lot and the plain and simple answer is the eyes, always the eyes. You get those eyes focused, then everything else just comes together. Using the subjects eyes can give your model different expressions.

See the light
The lighting you choose will also have a major factor in your photo. The lighting in your photograph can give you the mood you want or take it away if its not set up correctly. Lighting can make that beautiful swan look like an ugly duckling and vice versa, and lighting is something that will change from person to person. You should be prepared to constantly examine and adjust the lighting!

Stay Classy!
~CH

The Canon Elan 7ne Will Catch Your Eye

With the fastest autofocus in its class, it's never been so easy to achieve perfect focus so quickly. The ELAN 7ne have the fastest AF ever in an ELAN-series camera. Whether your subjects are moving or stationary. The ELAN 7ne offers class-leading AF that rivals the focus speed of top-of-the-line pro SLRs.

With AI Servo, One Shot and AI Focus modes, the AF system can adapt to any situation. AI Servo AF is perfect for moving subjects. The camera follows the subject continuously until the shutter is released, continuously adjusting focus for sharp results.

The ELAN 7ne is compatible with over 50 Canon EF lenses, the choice of professionals and hobbyists worldwide, Canon EF Lenses are masterpieces of innovative design and superior optics. Canon's advanced research and engineering places EF Lenses in a class by themselves. Unsurpassed in value and quality, there are more than 50 EF Lenses compatible with the EOS ELAN 7ne.

The ELAN 7ne has more focusing points and greater off-center focusing coverage than any other camera in its class. Focusing point selection keys make manual selection of focus points effortless, and focus points are clearly displayed in the camera's viewfinder. Built-in Dioptric adjustment corrects for the user's vision, and allows for easy shooting with or without glasses.
Eye Control

Use the ELAN 7ne's exclusive Eye Controlled Focus™ for instant, intuitive AF in almost any situation. The Eye Controlled Focus System tracks the glance of the eye, integrating composition and focus into one uninterrupted step. Canon's fastest Eye Control system to date, it works whether the camera is oriented horizontally or vertically.

This camera is a part of my personal collection, and I could not recommend it more highly, it's an incredible product that Canon has put a lot of thought and research into. If you have the change, and would like some more information, feel free to find out for yourself. You can also ask me if you have any questions for a very satisfied customer.

You stay classy,
~CH

Capture the Sunset of Your Dreams

Have you ever been disappointed with your sunset photos? Do they lack color, drama, and impact? If so, here are my quick tips for turning sunset snapshots into great shots!

Timing. You’ll get the most spectacular colors just when the sun kisses the horizon and after it has finished its kiss. That’s not to say that you can’t get great shots before and after those magic moments. Therefore, be prepared--with plenty of film and lots of time--to capture the ever-changing colors in the sky, which can change from second to second.

Composition. Ye old saying: “Dead center is deadly.” In photo terms, this means: Don’t put the sun in the dead center of the frame! Rather, place it off-center. This technique, effective for most subjects, draws the viewer into the scene by forcing him or her to look around the frame.

And speaking of deadly, don’t place the horizon in the dead center of the frame. Place it low in the frame when the sky has lots of color, and high in the frame when the foreground is interesting, as is often the case when photographing sunsets over water.

Foreground Elements. A sky filled with spectacular colors is a great photographic subject. But place a dramatic foreground element in the scene, and you have a knockout photo. Trees and buildings are great sunset foreground elements, so are people and animals.

Lenses. Photograph a sunset with a 24mm or 35mm lens and the sun will look like a pea in your picture. That may be okay, if the sky and foreground are interesting. Use a telephoto lens in the 300-600mm range and the sun will look like a huge ball in your picture. A dramatic effect, indeed.

Accessories. A tripod will come in handy after the sun has set--when you want to get those low-light shots of a pastel-colored sky--pictures that required shooting at slow shutter speeds.

Red, yellow, and orange filters can help with dull sunsets, but I don’t recommend them for naturally great sunsets. These filters tend to make the scene look too artificial.
Gradual filters can help improve sunset photos. These filters are dark on the top and clear on the bottom (held in one position) and smooth out the contrast range between a bright sky and dark foreground. These filters are available in several different densities, allowing you to match the bright and dark areas of a scene for picture-perfect results.

Film. (If you're not shooting Digital) I photograph sunsets with two films: Kodak Extra Color 100 for before the sun has officially set, and Kodak Elite Chrome 200 for those twilight shots. And I take more film than I think I need, several rolls of each. With ISO 100 and 200 films, I’m prepared to take pictures of the entire sunset sequence, only one of which, I’ve learned from experience, is the one I really like.

Exposure. I shoot digital with my Canon EOS D30. To ensure a good exposure, I take a reading of the brightest area of the scene and shoot at that setting. Then I take exposures at one-half stop and one stop under that setting (for a total of three exposures). The underexposed pictures have more saturated colors, and I sometimes prefer these shots over the “correctly” exposed ones.

If you shoot negatives, I recommend setting your camera on automatic. Take your shot. Then set your ISO dial to twice the ISO setting (ISO 100>200, for example) and shoot again. If your pictures are too dark or too light, or lack brilliant colors, take ’em back to your photofinisher and ask for a redo. Because negatives have a wide exposure latitude, you should be able to get a print you like.

Have Fun. Please don’t get too caught up in the technical aspects of sunset shooting. After all, you’re there to have fun! So enjoy the moment. And if your shot does not turn out the way you saw it in your “mind’s eye,” remember that you can use Photoshop or other imaging programs to enhance the colors, contrast, and exposure of your scene.
Good luck! I hope you see improvement and feel free to ask any questions!

You stay classy...
~CH

Discovering the Canon EOS 5D

Canon has recently revealed the Canon EOS 5D Digital 35mm SLR which is targeted at the advanced novice consumer photographer. It has many of the features of the Canon Mark II, but with the ease of use and portability of the Canon 20D. The two cameras compared side by shows how close they relate, yet differ slightly.
~CH